canyonwalker: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles. Travel! (planes trains and automobiles)
Panama Travelog #29
Panama City, Panama - Sat, 28 Dec 2024. 12pm.

Today we toured the Panama Canal. We booked a half-day ferry excursion that took us from the Pacific Ocean to approximately the midpoint of the canal, at Gamboa. There are 6 locks from end to end, 3 up and 3 down in each direction. Our ferry ascended through 3 locks then docked. Following that we rode a bus back to Panama City.

It was an early day. We set alarms for 4:45am to be out the door at 5:30am to report to the marina at 6am for check-in and boarding. The day started even earlier for me as my body decided at around 2:15am that it really didn't want more sleep. I sat up for 2.5 hours until our alarms rang.

Once at the marina things moved smoothly. Smoothly doesn't mean swiftly, though. One of the things our tour guides on the ship explained is that ships first wait an average of 8-10 hours at either end for the signal from authorities to begin transit, then a full transit through the canal takes 10-12 hours. So, going from ocean to ocean is a 24 hour process. Though that is quite swift compared to having to sail around Cape Horn at the tip of South America.

Entering a lock at Miraflores on the Panama Canal (Dec 2024)

Continuing with my resolution to avoid backlogging I will share just one photo from this amazing and information-packed trip. This pic shows the ship ahead of us, a car carrier that can hold 3,000 cars, entering one of the locks at Miraflores. We followed it through each of the locks. There was room for both ships.

Note the tugboat in the foreground. It helped guide the freighter into the narrow lock. By narrow I mean that the there is less than 1 foot of clearance on each side of the freighter.

There are also electric locomotives, two on each side of the lock. You can see their rails in the picture. These "mules", as they're called, attach steel cables to large ships fore and aft to pull, push, and guide them through the locks. We didn't have mules attached to our ship because we're narrow enough to fit easily. That car carrier fits in the locks with less than 1' of clearance on each side.

These are the original locks that were designed in 1904 and completed in 1914. The reason ships like this barely fit in the locks is because they're designed that way. For decades freighter ships have been designed specifically to fit through the Panama Canal locks that have been operating for just over 110 years now.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Alaska Travelog #14
Asea in Resurrection Bay - Sun, 16 Jun 2024, 5:30pm

Our day cruise to Kenai Fjords made good time on the trip back to Seward. Partly that was to make up time for losing an hour to engine trouble in the morning. Partly it was because we'd already seen a lot of wildlife in the morning, too. I mean, we saw a bald eagle before leaving the marina, playful sea otters a few minutes later, and a breaching humpback whale not long after that. (In fact, the captain speculated that it was during all these stops that seaweed got into the cooling intake and gummed up the works.) Later we saw killer whales and a bunch of different birds. On the way back, already late, we did stop for another pair of humpbacks. One was a juvenile who seemed to be literally jumping for joy. Unfortunately none of my photos or videos of this turned out as good as I hoped. Just catching good views of whales is tough; getting good photos of them is even more difficult.

Crew's annotated map of our Kenai Fjords cruise (Jun 2024)

One of the crew amused me with an annotated chart of where we'd gone and what we'd seen during the cruise. Well, he didn't do it just to amuse me. He did it to amuse everyone. I think I was the only one who liked it, though. 😅

As we steamed back toward Seward I watched the views out the windows. It was miles and miles of snow-capped mountains, some with glaciers, on both sides of Resurrection Bay.

Seward, Alaska seen from Resurrection Bay (Jun 2024)

Heres' a photo of Seward as we approach it from the west (above).

Seward, Alaska seen from Resurrection Bay (Jun 2024)

And this is a photo looking north at Seward. This is what's behind our hotel. See the view looking across the bay from our hotel in my Saturday night blog.

In almost any other place mountain views like these would be wondrous. Here they're so abundant they've became almost hum-drum. As much fun as this cruise has been, we'll be happy to be back on dry land in a few minutes.

canyonwalker: A toast with 2 glasses of beer. Cheers! (beer tasting)
Alaska Travelog #13
Asea in Kenai Fjords NP - Sun, 16 Jun 2024, 2:45pm

Remember how I quipped that cruising around in the ice floe at the foot of Northwest Glacier was like floating in the world's largest margarita? Well, while all of us passengers were topside taking pictures of the mountains, glaciers, icy bay, and wildlife, one of the crew was belowdecks chopping up a chunk of floating ice he'd hauled up from the water. And as we steamed away out of the bay, the bar was definitely open... for glacier-itas!

Enjoying a glacierita— a margarita mixed with glacial ice— on a cruise through Kenai Fjords (Jun 2024)

This "glacierita" is a margarita made with chunks of glacial ice. It does somehow taste better than a regular terrestrial margarita made with chunks of ice that are merely hours, or maybe days, old rather than centuries old. Maybe it's the glacial flour. Or maybe it's just taste amplification from the amazing scenery. Whatever it is, it's good enough that I'll have two. 🤣

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Alaska Travelog #12
Asea in Kenai Fjords NP - Sun, 16 Jun 2024, 2:30pm

Finally, the moment on this day-cruise I've been waiting for came. ...Well, two moments came. First, the dang fog lifted. Finally we could see the mountains around us in Kenai Fjords. And by "see" I mean see more than the first 100-200' above the water. We could see thousands of feet up... and blue sky above! And second, we reached some of the glaciers.

Northwest glacier in Kenai Fjords National Park (Jun 2024)

Even better than just reaching a glacier we reached one that hasn't always been that easy to see. That's quite a statement when 100+ years of global warming have sent glaciers worldwide into rapid retreat. The story with Northwest Glacier, in the photo above, is that it used to be past a gravel bar enclosing the bay. A major earthquake in 1964 shuffled that gravel bar under about 60' of water. Now ships can cruise right over it and reach close to the foot of the glacier.

And yes, those are chunks of ice floating in the water. No, we didn't stop as soon as we reached them. We cruised right on in... through what I called The World's Biggest Margarita. It was fun listening to the *thunk* *thunk* *thunk* of ice chunks bouncing off the hull of the ship. ...Was it also scary, in a Titanic sort of way? Not really. I figure the mistake the crew of the Titanic made was playing chicken with ice the size of the ship.

Seals on floating ice in Kenai Fjords National Park (Jun 2024)

We weren't the only ones floating around at the foot of Northwest Glacier enjoying the sunny weather. A bunch of seals were out, sunning themselves atop the ice.

canyonwalker: My other car is a pair of hiking boots (in beauty I walk)
Alaska Travelog #11
Asea in Kenai Fjords NP - Sun, 16 Jun 2024, 11am

I've got to hand it to him— our cruise captain MacGyvered a fix for the engine problem that was hobbling the ship. It turned out seaweed had gotten into the coolant intake pipe and made it past the filter. The ship's engines use sea water as coolant. Seaweed got wrapped around the impeller, which is like a rapidly spinning gear cog that pulls water through the pipe, causing it to overheat and start to break down. This further caused too little cool water to reach the engines, causing them to start to overheat. There were replacement impeller wheels aboard the ship— the first mate explained that carrying a variety of replacement parts for hot-swaps at sea is standard when I expressed surprise— but the captain also had to improvise tools to pull the seaweed out of the long supply pipe. Well, long story short, we were under way again about an hour after the problem first appeared.

The captain pushed on ahead to Spire Cove to help make up for lost time. Normally he might have gone slower looking for aquatic wildlife, but we'd already seen a lot. There was a bald eagle right at the marina and playful otters just outside that. Then we saw humpback whales, too. The video I tried capturing of them didn't turn out well. But hey, I was talking about Spire Cove....


Link: watch video on YouTube

Spire Cove is interesting for the tall, rocky spires jutting up from the sea. This is a situation where the morning's foggy weather was both good and bad. It was bad because it foiled long-distance views and muted out the colors around us. Those colors would've been striking in the sun, especially with all those wildflowers and trees improbably growing atop the spires. The good side of the fog was that it created a certain aura of mystery around the spires.

Will the fog lift by the time we get to the glaciers? I certainly hope so, because that's a place where long-distance views absolutely will count, and I want to see the glaciers. For me that's the number-one reason to spend the time and money on this cruise.

The crew says that this fog is a convective fog. It's caused by warm air over cold water. Yesterday was an extremely warm day for Alaska— we enjoyed 74° highs up in Anchorage! So now this is like our punishment for having such a nice day yesterday. 😧


canyonwalker: Uh-oh, physics (Wile E. Coyote)
Alaska Travelog #10
Asea in Resurrection Bay - Sun, 16 Jun 2024, 10am

Things are not exactly... ship shape... on our cruise today. We're idling out in Resurrection Bay about an hour out of Seward because one of the ship's engines is overheating. It seems that the coolant impeller has gotten gummed up with seaweed. The captain is belowdecks in the engine room trying to wrangle the problem. His first approach to fixing it didn't work, so we limped over to a spot with mobile reception so he could call an expert engine mechanic for advice. He's said he's hoping he can McGyver a solution here at sea. I hope he can, too, so today's 8 hour tour doesn't become a 3 hour tour. A three hour tour!

canyonwalker: Hangin' in a hammock (life's a beach)
Grand Cayman Travelog #8
Starfish Point, Grand Cayman - Tue, 16 May 2023, 4pm

After swimming with the stingrays we got to the part of the trip I had most been looking forward to this afternoon: snorkeling. Except by the time we got to the snorkeling reef I already knew I wasn't going in the water. 😱 I'd donned a snorkeling mask back at the stingray scrum to practice snorkeling, and I got something in my eye. It was so painful that my eye was watering constantly and I couldn't deal with anything being placed on, over, or near it for at least a few hours.

I stayed on the boat while everyone else went in the water. My consolation prize was the guides opened the bar for me. There was a bar on the boat, and the rule was "No booze until ya're done wit' snorkeling". Well, I was done.

I did get a chance to get back in the water at our final stop, Starfish Point. The boat anchored within about 50' of shore, and the water was only 2' deep. There were bunches of starfish in the shallow water. We also found a sea cucumber and a friendly jellyfish. "Friendly" in this case was that it was sort of floating upside down, its stinging tentacles on top. We took turns holding it from underneath. While we were exchanging expressions of surprising at how we could touch it without being stung, a colleague of mine who speaks several European languages explained that in every language he knows except English, a jellyfish is called basically a Medusa. That is... way more apropos and far less stupid than jelly fish.

As for the starfishes? I took video of a few other people and myself playing with them. My videos turned out damaged, though. It'll take me a while to see if I can salvage anything worthwhile or get a better quality pics/video from a friend.

Update: we went back to Starfish Point Friday, on our own. I posted a new journal entry with great pictures and video from Starfish Point.

canyonwalker: Hangin' in a hammock (life's a beach)
Grand Cayman Travelog #7
On the water off Grand Cayman - Tue, 16 May 2023, 2pm

This afternoon we went on one of the organized outings of our group trip. Normally we prefer not to do group excursions, but this one a) was a group of my colleagues, people I know, and their +1s; b) was paid for by the company; and c) was an opportunity to go snorkeling— something I've never done before— with guides to help.

The boat motored out across the bay on the north side of Grand Cayman. I could tell by watching the water we passed over that it was not very deep. Mostly it maintained a light green/aquamarine hue, and we could more or less see the white sand bottom. One of the guides explained that until we hit the reef establishing the northern edge of the bay the water's generally no more than 20' deep.

Up ahead I could see it got even shallower than that. It got to about 2-3' deep— though we were at least a mile from the nearest shore— and I could see dark rocks almost breaking the surface. ....Except they weren't rocks. They were moving. They were stingrays!

Rendezvous with a manta ray in Grand Cayman (May 2023)

It turns out stingrays are generally gentle creatures. And like a lot of creatures, they react well to getting their bellies rubbed. The ray in the picture above is "Chip"; she's a female in the school of rays living in this area that's recognizable because of a notch in her right fin from an injury year ago. Female rays are much larger than males. Chip here is almost 6' across. Males are generally only 2-3' across. Chip is also pregnant. That bulge in her topside toward the rear is where she's pregnant with a litter. Stingrays are fish and related to sharks but have live birth.

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